Four hours of cheerful climbing, night in a tent at the Troll’s tongue and descent after sunrise the next day. That was the plan, but the Norwegian fjords were willing to show us their slightly different face. Damn it, three months ago while choosing insurance I could have purchased a package covering the costs of the rescue operation in the mountains. Oh, it could have been of use!
Theoretically, climbing on Trolltunga should take 4 to 5 hours as the distance is 11 kilometers. Before entering the trail, we visited a tourist information point where a charming gentleman informed us that it would be windy, it wasn’t going to rain, and if we had food we could go but we would need to be careful. At the parking lot we approached some Frenchmen who just had returned from Trolltunga and stayed overnight at the top. They comforted us so despite the strong gusts of wind we set out.
The first kilometer was a drama. The climb was very steep and exhausting. There used to be a cableway here which helped people to cover this difficult stretch, however for some reason it was shut down, which was a pity. The breeze was blowing and we admired fabulous views. Autumn in these areas is wonderful, the colors are so vivid that we couldn’t believe our eyes.
After covering the third kilometer, we looked at the watch and it turned out that we have been walking for three hours! After all we were supposed to cover the entire distance in four, maybe five hours, but the wind took its toll. When we decided we would climb for another hour and then put up our tent, we came across a Norwegian who claimed “he was responsible for security in the region”. He said that if he had been in our shoes he wouldn’t have gone further and started asking detailed questions about our equipment, preparation, etc. We started worrying a bit but decided to give ourselves 30 minutes. When we started another climb we heard screams. The aforementioned Norwegian ran up to us and said that he would have to call for help because the weather suddenly changed and weather conditions are so tragic that before we could say Jack Robinson we would be blown away from the rocks. He warned us that if we continue climbing, he would have to start a rescue operation to take us down. The motto of our trip “we’re gonna die” of course said with the tongue in cheek was going to come true in less than no time…
Despite the huge disappointment we decided to go down. Torches were drawn and we covered the rest of our way in the moonlight and in the light of torches. At night, I thought that the wind would tear our tent to shreds. However, before going to sleep I told myself that the next day I would try to climb again. Friends were not interested in my proposal though.
The alarm clock didn’t wake me up at seven o’clock, but I was awakened by the laughs… of a Polish couple. I ran out of the tent and asked if I could join them, and so without breakfast and morning toilet I turned up at the trail. I did not realize how much the six-hour climb of the previous day had tired my body. Even greater folly was climbing without food. My heart was telling me “Troll’s waiting”, but my legs were screaming “get down”. Fortunately, my friends were still at the parking lot and a moment later we were driving to Preikestolen. But about it in the next post. Stay tuned!
P.S. Together with Emilia we’re preparing a video of Bergen-Trolltunga-Preikestolen for you!
The season runs from June 1 through September 20. After that time the buses from the Troll cease to run.
Arrival: The fastest and most convenient way of getting around is a car. If you have e.g. 4-man team, the cost of renting the car does not exceed 75 PLN including fuel per person per day. From Bergen head for Voss, then Odde, Tyssedal and after arrival at the Skjeggedal parking you can start climbing to the summit. 16h parking ticket costs 160 crowns, and 24h one – 200 crowns.
I don’t recommend climbing the wooden stairs, you better take a forest path on the left – reduced risk of falling and more beautiful views. Recently, at the stairs there appeared the information stating that at the top there is placed a two-meter netting so daredevils who are willing to break the rules will have to go back anyway.
Before departure check the weather at yr.no (which is constantly changing;-) ).
There are numerous streams along the way, so you don’t have to take a large supply of water with you unless you’re afraid to drink from mountain streams.